Saigon Thao's to a German Biker Bar in Phnom Penh by Bus - part one

Pham Nu Lao - across the street from SAPACO office

Thao is the Thao of " Thao's Rooms for rent" on Le Thi Rieng in Ho Chi Minh City where I've been renting a room for my monthly plus visits to Saigon over the past half a dozen years. Thao is a lovely Vietnamese lady who has also become a good friend and a great help in dealing with stuff I can’t get done on my own, including getting a good seat on the bus to Phnom Penh.

I had been in Thailand for a few months and now in Saigon close to a month and found myself in need of a vacation from my travels so Thao booked me a seat on one of SAPACO's buses to Phnom Penh at a cost of $ 10.00 us. Eight or nine years ago their wasn't many choices of buses to Phnom Penh from Saigon, especially ones that carried you through the boarder with out a bus change. Now there is a gaggle of bus companies offering buses to Phnom Penh and all carry you through the boarder. SAPACO  was one of the first to ply this route that offered a comfortable buses and reliable service and  is still a good choice even with all the competitors. However, their travel office on Pham Nu Lao isn't the kind of place where you will find your new best friend but  is where you don’t go to get one of their clean, safe and efficiently run buses.  So what you do is, ticket in hand that you had someone buy for you, skip the office and head across the street to where their big red buses are and ask around or just be cool and stand by a bus and let them find you.

Saigon traffic

Back a few year ago bus schedules to Phnom Penh were comprised of a bus leaving at 7:00 AM and another at the late hour of  9:00 AM.  Though "the times they are a changing" (Bobby D.) and yup the first bus still leaves at 7:00 AM but after that their are buses leaving every hour through the morning and every couple hours in the afternoon until 5:00 PM.  However, let me pass along this suggestion  you all that have your heart set on a front seat, like the premo A1, front left allowing you too shoot photos of the countryside as it bounces by the window or maybe your a little anti-social  like me and like your stuff close, make a reservation a couple days in advance and book two seats.  Then again if you’re the laid back sort who is just glad not to be walking, just show up and they will find you a place for you or maybe I'll sell you my extra seat. 

Cambodia boarder bus stop

Don't forget take along your 

into Cambodia

passport and you'll  need a Cambodia visa.   The required visa can be got many different ways, travel agency in Saigon,  the internet through the Cambodian Consulate website or the easiest way is to have the bus drivers helper take care of it for you at the boarder. Buying a visa direct from the Cambodia Consulate is $20.00 (US) or once aboard when they come around to collect your passport - stick $25.00 (US) in it and the bus drivers helper will handle filling out forms and move your passport with your new Cambodian visa inside through immigration while you wait.

Welcome to Cambodia

However, when you arrive at the boarder you  have to leave the bus taking your bags with and walk through immigration and customs.  You and your bags head into the building and wait for your name to be called.  Then retrieve your passport with Cambodian visa added and  properly stamped. Moving through immigration/customs leaving Vietnam and entering Cambodia .  Oh, but here is a new twist, you now have to have your fingers scanned and according to the attending official this devise is part of a 10 million dollar US supplied system.  Note: 60 year olds and older get a pass, guess we old guys are not thought to be a danger.   Anyway, the whole boarder process takes about an hour and a half - decent rest room just inside the building and people treat you pretty good so it's a nice break.

Then you re-board your bus and your on the road again, not a bad road but it's Cambodia and good by Cambodia standards but not as smooth as the Vietnam portion then it's a lunch stop. It’s not you when you feel confused in ordering your food because the reality is that there is no rhyme or reason to the food service it’s just every man women and dog for themselves. Open Khmer kitchen with waiters wondering around but never seem to see me, so I normally just go to the kitchen and point at some things, eat and leave some money (55,000 dong this time, about 2.50 us) on the table.  Open air restrooms in the back, clean and basic.

on to the ferry

the ferry

Half an hour later we are back on the highway again and all we have is one ferry ride and then we are on the home stretch to Phnom Penh. You stay aboard for the crossing while being entertained by the colorful vendors selling all sorts of eats outside your window.

mango lady

junior egg vendor

 - Ferry vendors -

Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh traffic as we approach

As we pull into Phnom Penh after 6 plus hours on the road and climb off at the SAPACO travel office we are greeted by bevies of  moto and tuk tuk guys vying to  haul you across town to your lodging.  Bargain with them but be nice, this should end up as a win, win kind of deal - a good starting point is to offer half their starting price and work up from there. Sometimes I just hang back or walk of on my own and wait for better deal.   Have a price set and your destination with the address before you climb aboard and don't let them take you anywhere else.  I write a destination with address and phone number on an index card and say it and show them the card  to minimize confusion.

Ok, we know about Thao and the bus ride to Phnom Penh but hey what's with this German biker bar in the title, my apologies but I need a rum but promise it will all come together in part two.