motorbike way - Saigon

bikes and a street side food vendor

yup, riding on the side walk

Looking through some of my older stuff on vietnam-now.com  and found this piece on motorbike traffic and though you might enjoy it.  Think it was written  about 10 years ago but traffic hasn't changed all that much, other than we have much more, traffic that is. About twice the  number of motorbikes and what  really complicates things the is the increase in the number of cars trucks and buses.     
         click -  The Motorbike Way


Side bar: In 2011 3.671 motorbikes were registered in Vietnam - compared to 2012 at 3.282 million, and 2013 at 3.272 million. So the numbers of registered motorbikes are declining but still is one hell of a lot of motorbikes and on the horizon auto sales are set to pick up..  All this on unimproved roads originally built for bicycles and ox carts. 

Then it was Vietnam - part 2

Village meeting - Binh Dinh Province - 1967

                     
The war was going strong, with the US committed to adding me along with many others to its expanding effort. Though, as it turned out this didn't do much to change the course of the war as in the not too distant future the US, started scaling back on it's commitment. Then, abruptly pulled the plug on its war effort, walking away from its  multi-zillion-dollar investment, along with a cadre of loyal Vietnamese. Ton Son Nhut Air Base was a good example of the bounty left behind and was recreated by the new North Vietnamese government as one of the two international airports serving Vietnam, the other being in Hanoi. Ton Son Nhut is located about 30 minutes from Saigon's city center, district 1.

Ultimately, as things turned out I ended up in Phu Cat in Binh Dinh Province. A heck of a long way from Saigon but close enough to be regaled with the stories of the goings on in the city from air crews ferrying supplies and personal. Hearing so many of these stories I started to get the feeling I had been there my self.  

From the stories it seemed the fascination for all that experienced Saigon was its ability to morph into whatever role was expected of it. For the war weary young GI's it was a place to have a bunch of Ba Ba Ba's (inexpensive, Vietnamese beer), meet beautiful and fun Vietnamese ladies and for a moment, loosen the vice grip of the life and death realities of war.  While on a more restrained note Saigon was the political capital of South Vietnam, housing the south's military and political leadership, along with the foreign embassies representing nations friendly to the South's cause. Of course it was also ground zero for US Military's Command Group governing operations in Southeast Asia. This was all played out in front of a backdrop of hardworking Saigonese shopkeepers, laborers, and the other ordinary Vietnamese that were the core of the city. All this was stirred into the bubbling mass of affluent Vietnamese business folk, fast buck hucksters, hookers and pimps. It must have been quite a place back then but how about now, 35 some years later.  Well, for me Saigon, Ho Chi Minh City, or whatever you want to call it, while more mellow under the communist regime is still a damn cool place.  

It wasn't until I made my return 15 years ago that I would be able to spend any time in Saigon.  On my year gig in the war, landing in-country at Ton Son Nhat was as close as I  was to get to Saigon. Stretching my be legs after my late morning arrival I stumbled across the base Airman's club where the bartender turned out to be an old friend from my home town.  Man it sure is a small  world. After a beer, ok two, and a bite to eat I was feeling a little more relaxed.  Wished my newly found, old friend well, slung my duffel over my shoulder, orders in hand and headed back out to the flight line in search of a ride to Quin Nhon, listed as my new duty station.

Right off, I found a friendly C130 crew chief who offered up a hop to Quin Nhon. That is, if I could give them a hand rolling off a jeep at an airstrip along the way.  

You know that old saying - "the devil is in the details" and in this case, the details were in our pilot's attempted landing on one of those temporary, metal-grating landing strips, while someone or someones on the ground were shooting up at us! 

All the while the pilot continued on his approach, the tail ramp door was opening as the crew chief struggled to get the jeeps wraps off. While I made a feeble attempt to help with one hand and  with the other holding a death grip on a exposed section of the bulkhead. As I'm thinking "screw this damn jeep," and struggling to keep my balance the pilot abruptly pulled up in preparation for a second approach. Meanwhile, the crew chief was back to taking care of the jeep as the pilot lined us up for a second pass.  He drags himself over to my bulkhead and hollers in my ear, "Get ready, this time the jeep is out of here and so are we" As we made our approch I strained to see out and get a look at our landing path, the metal corrugated strip was pock marked and hardly visible through the grass that had over gown it but the area appeared deserted (emphasis on appeared).  The rest was a blur as we fell over one another, kicking the damn jeep out.  Not sure if we were actually on the ground when it finally rolled off, but we had done our job.

The chief comes over and says "Welcome to Vietnam" and I'm thinking, "as a supply sergeant I don't think I'm supposed to be doing this kind of stuff ".  An hour or so later we landed at Quin Nhon, the second leg of what turned out to be a three leg trip to my new duty station.   

To be continued:

(link to part 1)  

Thanks for stopping by..

Doug has a stomach problem

Haven't posted much lately as I've been distracted with an ongoing stomach malady,which acts up when I'm sitting or laying down and is especially bad starting about 10:30 PM.  Of course I don't do much writing lying down so logic would dictate I could work around it but because I'm sleeping very little at night, evening  is prime time for writing.  Then I have to deal with the sitting and the feelings of anxiety and that is "the rest of the story".   

No, not acid reflux, but a pressure and ensuing  pain that radiates through my abdomen, then up and up, sometimes even bringing tears to my eyes.  Visited doctors in Sai Gon, Bangkok and here in the states with little success in finding relief.  Some try and treat me for acid reflux, others look reflective and come up with homeopathy cures like "peppermint oil".  Meanwhile, I revert to my work around of Gaviscon, ruhm and coke (not all together) and walking around until a burp or fart loosen up my system.

Now I'm going to share something with you, 45 years ago at Phu Cat, Vietnam - every night (okay, not every night but it seems that way now) charlie would start a fire fight with our gun tower by the main gate next to my hut.  The rat tat tat of our 50 cal with the back up of small arms, along with the wooch of mortars were my night time lalaby's.  No serious damage seemed to come of these exchanges so it just became a part of my night life, so I thought I had it handled but maybe not.  

You read and hear all this bad press about the VA but my doctor and her nurse are interested not only in my adventures but in helping me figure out this problem.  Next Tuesday (6/24/2014) they have me scheduled for a CAT scan of my stomach. Of course when you're pushing 70 as I am your nervous about tests like this, you want to fix the problem but all the options that can effect this is worrisome.  

Meanwhile I've got part 2 of photos of Saigon and I'm working on something on Thai politics and an update to the effect of martial law in the kingdom.

Street side sandal repair -